Help & guides · Updated October 2026
Wi-Fi keeps dropping at home? Fix the usual causes first
Most dropping Wi-Fi is a router in the wrong place, the wrong band, or a modem older than the kids. What to try, in order, before you call anyone.
Wi-Fi that drops in the middle of a call, dies upstairs, or turns to syrup at 8 p.m. is one of the most common problems we get called about, and most of it comes down to a few things anybody can check. Go through these in order before you pay anyone, including us.
Is it the Wi-Fi, or the internet?
They are different problems with different fixes. If you can, plug a laptop straight into the router with a network cable. If the internet still drops on the cable, it is the connection coming into the house, and that is your provider’s department: check their outage page, then call them. If the cable is rock solid and only the wireless drops, keep reading, because the fix is inside your house.
Where the router lives
- Wi-Fi is radio, and it hates walls, floors, metal and water. A router in a basement corner, a closet, a cabinet, or behind the TV is serving half the house from the worst possible seat.
- Move it to the middle of the house, up off the floor, out in the open. That alone fixes more dead zones than any gadget.
- Microwaves, baby monitors, cordless phones and the neighbor’s router all talk over the same airwaves. If it drops every time someone heats a coffee, that is the microwave.
2.4 GHz versus 5 GHz
Most routers broadcast two networks. 2.4 GHz goes farther and through more walls, but it is slower and crowded with every neighbor’s network and every smart plug. 5 GHz is much faster but has shorter reach. A phone that keeps switching between the two, or clings to a far-away 5 GHz signal, feels like it is dropping. If your router shows them as two names, try putting the far-away devices on 2.4 and the close, fast ones on 5. If it shows one name and decides for you, that is usually fine, unless it is deciding badly, which is a settings fix.
How old is the modem and router?
- A combined modem-router from your provider that is more than five or six years old is often the whole problem. They run hot, their radios age, and they were built for a house with four devices, not forty.
- Count what is on your Wi-Fi: phones, TVs, doorbells, thermostats, speakers, consoles, the printer. An old router quietly chokes past a couple dozen.
- Restart it once, the proper way: unplug the modem and the router, wait a full minute, plug the modem in first, let it settle, then the router. If that fixes it for a week and it comes back, the hardware is tired.
- Firmware updates fix real bugs. Most newer routers update themselves; older ones have a button in their settings page.
Extenders, and why they disappoint
A plug-in repeater takes a weak signal and repeats it, weakly, at half speed. It is a bandage. What fixes a big house, a brick house, or a house with the router stuck in a bad spot is a second access point connected back to the router by a wire, or a decent mesh system placed properly. Which one you need depends on the house, and that is where measuring beats guessing.
When to call someone in
When the router is in a good spot, the restart did not stick, the cable test says the internet itself is fine, and the Wi-Fi still dies in parts of the house or drops under load. At that point the fix is a proper look: we come out, measure where the signal actually dies, find what is fighting it, and place wired access points or a mesh so the whole house gets real signal, not a repeated echo of it. We do that as part of our network and Wi-Fi work, for homes as well as offices.
An on-site visit is a flat $149, quoted in the booking flow before you commit, and a next-day or weekend slot adds $49. Most everyday Wi-Fi problems are sorted on the spot; if the house needs hardware, you hear what and why before anything is bought. Book it from the on-site page, or call or text (574) 444-9910 and tell us what keeps dropping. Every price we charge is on our prices page.
Wi-Fi dies upstairs, drops on calls, crawls at night?
We measure where the signal actually dies and fix it for good. Flat $149 visit, quoted before you book.
Common questions
Quick answers
Should I just buy a new router?
Maybe, but not first. A new router in the same basement corner has the same problem. Move it, restart it properly, and do the cable test before you spend. If the modem-router is from your provider and older than five or six years, replacing it is often the right call, and we can tell you which one fits the house.
Why is the Wi-Fi fine during the day and terrible at night?
Usually crowding, either in your house, with every TV and phone streaming at once, or on your street, with every neighbor on the same 2.4 GHz channels. Moving close devices to 5 GHz helps, and so does a router that can handle the device count. If the cable test also slows down at night, that is your provider’s line, not your Wi-Fi.
Can you do this for a small business too?
Yes, and it is the same measurement-first approach, with wired access points so a shop or office gets real coverage. See our networks and Wi-Fi page, or call and describe the building.
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Our flat prices are posted on the pricing page. The one thing we never guess at is the repair itself: we look first ($60, credited to your repair), then you get a real number before any work starts. Walk in, book a time, or text us a photo of what’s wrong. Look for the black door with our logo on it, straight ahead when you pull in, up the steps; knock if it’s locked, we’re here.